The back of Half Dome, seen from the JMT a little after 8 a.m. in late August. No one is on the cables (you can see the worn path to the top at the arrow).
One of the decisions you’ll need to make during your John Muir Trail thru-hike is whether or not to take a detour and hike to the top of Half Dome. If you haven’t already decided, here are a few thoughts.
First a bit in the way of description for those who may not be aware of what is involved. If you’re not an experienced climber, the only way to the top of this most famous Yosemite landmark is via its northeast shoulder. Along that route are twin cables, running up the steep granite face, to the flat (and surprisingly large) top of the dome.
Although the cables are installed all year long; they are not “set-up” until the spring. Once the snow accumulation is gone, Rangers suspend them several feet off the ground, on metal stanchions mounted into the granite. Wooden boards are laid across the bottoms of the stanchions to brace against as you climb. The stanchions and boards are removed for the winter, usually sometime in October.
The slope, in places, exceeds sixty degrees. I have never seen a photo that does the true nature of the climb justice. Many people, when they first approach the bottom, turn around and leave—deciding that the incline is a bit more than they had signed up for. (Truthfully, I was almost one of them.)
Gloves (to protect your hands from the cables) and shoes with flat, sticky soles help considerably.
The top is amazing, and, in my opinion, well worth the trouble. One doesn’t often look down on El Capitan, and the views of the valley floor are incredible. Don’t miss the opportunity to get on your belly and scoot to the very edge for the view straight down. (Just make sure that no more than your head is hanging over!)
But should you do it during your John Muir Trail thru-hike?
If it takes a ton of money or travel time for you to get to Yosemite National Park, and you don’t expect to be able to return to the park in the next year or so, go ahead. Scaling the cables is an amazing adventure. It’s scary, but relatively safe, and it provides a tremendous payoff for just half-a-day of delay. (I say it is relatively safe, but there have been a few fatalities over the decades of use. There is little room for error on the cables. Should you slip and let go, the odds are against you.)
I also believe that the cables are the “firefall” of the twenty-first century. (More on the firefall, if you have never heard of it.) In other words, I think the days of the cables are numbered. They have always been a thorn in the side of a certain element within the National Park Service, and in recent years they have instituted a permitting system to regulate access. In short, if you don’t do it when you have the chance, you may not get the chance again, after the government’s mighty thumb rubs out the option to do so.
Should you decide to try, make sure you check the appropriate block on your wilderness permit reservation request. No one may climb the cables without the special Half Dome permit.
Ultimately, my advice is this: if you can arrange to do the Half Dome hike at another time, skip it during your JMT thru-hike. If this is going to be your only chance, don’t miss it!
Good hiking, Ray
The top of Half Dome is larger than you might imagine!
I really underestimated the hike up Half Dome, which was the first day on the trail for me. I left my pack in a food locker at the LYV campsite and left for Half Dome without any water in hand. I thought at the time that it would be a short there and back trip. Pretty foolish.
Fortunately I asked for and received a bottle of water from a day hike group somewhere above treeline. I made it to the base of half dome with that group. We were pretty much the last group to make it. The cables looked quite intimidating, and I was planning on turning around, but the dayhikers convinced me to go for it. Donning a pair of gloves that was available, I made the climb up. Definitely coming down was a lot harder than going up.
Being new to the trail, the sight of clouds in the sky while on Half Dome made me nervous, but there was probably nothing to worry about there.
Managed to make it back to camp before dinnertime; a tiring first day on the trail. Although the sun was setting, the dayhikers I had met still had quite a ways to go to return to the valley!
Great story, Victor, and you and by no means the only hiker to underestimate the water needs. Glad it worked out well and thanks for the comment!
I was going to ask about the “climb down.” I know there are many stories about the way up but knowing me and my fears – going DOWN is what I am really worried about. Thoughts?
Great question, Marisol. Going down is definitely cause for holding on a little tighter to the cables, but it is perfectly safe if you take your time and concentrate on what you’re doing. It’s even safer now, since there are fewer people on the cables at any particular time. Good luck!
I believe the hike up Half Dome is one of the highlights of the JMT! My Son and I were finishing our trek heading South – we had our permit for the climb (a Ranger asked to see it when we were coming down) and made it a point to camp the night before at the base just below the cables – there are a few good spots on either side of the trail within yards of the climb, but no water. We headed up early in the morning, in the dark, and made it to the top before the sunrise – what a spectacular view and sight!!! The added bonus was that we didn’t get stuck in the “conga line” that occurs most days in mid-morning when the hordes of folks from the Valley get there. We went up and came down with virtually no line! Early morning & sunrise on Half Dome – Priceless!!!
Sounds amazing, Steve. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the article! I am in a group of 3 with JMT (and Half Dome) permits starting in late July. We are undecided on doing Half Dome though because we have pass-through permits for the first night and won’t be able to leave our gear at LYV. So my biggest concern is what to do with our packs? I have yet to hear or find a safe option. It’s either hike with them all the way up (dreadful) or hide them in the forest near HD junction which means possible theft by day-hikers or destruction from bears/critters thereby ending our JMT on day 1.
Any thoughts? I hear varying opinions/advice from one source to the next. Perhaps we can pay someone staying at LYV without plans for the afternoon to hang out and guard our packs at the junction until we return? haha 😉
Thanks for the kind words, Jim. You are right; there are no great options in regards to your backpacks and hiking Half Dome. Ultimately, it comes down to either trusting your fellow hikers or the bears. Personally, I would prefer to trust the hikers and leave my pack near the bottom of the cables somewhere. One sure fire solution (with an obvious disadvantage) would be to leave one of you three at the bottom guarding the packs. As I say in the article, unless you don’t think you will have another chance to hike Half Dome, doing during a JMT hike is not the best alternative. Good luck!
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