Those of us who follow all things John Muir Trail could certainly see it coming.
First, there was the economic collapse of ’07 and ’08, which meant lots of folks were looking for places closer to home to vacation. Then came the terrific movie, Mile…Mile & a Half. The internet played a role with the proliferation of blogs, ebooks, etc. Last came the popularity of the book and movie, Wild. True, Cheryl Strayed skipped the John Muir Trail entirely. But people who were looking for a “PCT-like” experience in a more manageable package naturally gravitated to the John Muir Trail.
It was only a matter of time before the demand on the trail required some corrective actions by those charged with keeping the wilderness…well, wilderness.
It appears that we may see some of those corrections soon.
A few days ago I was lucky enough to talk with one of the architects of the changes we are likely to see. Ed Dunlavey is the Wilderness Manager for Yosemite National Park. He has more than thirty years experience managing wild areas, including substantial time in a place a lot more untamed than Yosemite: Alaska. He and I spoke about the problems (there are more than one), the possible solutions (they are still crafting them, but are close), and the way ahead (whatever they come up with will be interim solutions; these will NOT be the final adjustments).
The Problems
There are three primary problems—all the result of increased demand. (JMT-related requests are up 240% from last year, and during the few years prior there were substantial increases as well.)
First is the impact JMT hikers are having on everyone else who is trying to get into the wilderness. As the number of hikers who want to leave from Happy Isles doubled, then doubled again, and again, the trailhead quotas stayed the same. All those disappointed would-be JMT hikers looked elsewhere to enter. Glacier Point was the most obvious, but it was in no way the only alternative. The result: it is getting harder and harder for people who only want to hike around the Yosemite wilderness to enter from any trailhead that could potentially get you to the JMT.
Next, with more JMT hikers entering from more trailheads, and then turning towards the JMT, the density of hikers in certain areas became a problem. The first area to show the signs of overuse (fire rings, “improved” campsites, bear encounters) was around Sunrise Creek. More recently, Lyell Canyon has begun to show the same signs of overuse.
[I should note that the park service considers the overuse problems more serious than the non-JMT hiker access problem. I, on the other hand, tend to sympathize more with the hikers!]
The Solutions
Mr. Dunlavey was kind enough to sketch out the possible solutions, but he emphasized that none of what I am about to describe has been approved. As somebody who has worked for the government for about forty years I can tell you that recommendations rarely emerge from the staffing process unscathed!
1. An exit quota (the exact number has not yet been established) would be imposed on those leaving Yosemite National Park, southbound, over Donohue Pass. A hiker would indicate on the permit reservation form that he or she was intending to exit via Donohue. Since there will be no increase or decrease to any of the trailhead quotas, the lottery would remain pretty much the same, except…
2. The ten Happy Isles to Sunrise/Merced Lake (pass-through) permits and the ten Glacier Point to Little Yosemite Valley could ALL be reserved 168 days in advance. (Or, if you are a glass-half-empty kind of guy, none of those twenty permit quotas would be held back for hikers who walk-up.)
Those twenty quotas might also be spread across more than the two trailheads where they are now available. The only walk-up permits available to hike the John Muir Trail, from any trailhead (except, possibly, Tuolumne Meadows) would occur if someone canceled their reservation. The consensus is that in July and August that would mean essentially NO walk-up permits to hike the JMT starting from the valley.
Obviously, there are lots more implementing instructions to be worked out. The devil, as they say, is in the details. My best guess is this: the only way to walk from Yosemite Valley to Mount Whitney (via Donohue Pass), regardless of the valley trailhead you use to enter the wilderness, will be to secure one of the twenty “pass-through” quotas or to get really lucky on a cancellation.
If we are going to evaluate these new rules fairly the first question that should be asked is this: do these solutions have a good chance of solving the problems described above? I think the honest answer has to be, “Yes.”
By setting an exit quota at Donohue Pass the park service is suppressing the number of JMT hikers REGARDLESS of which trailhead they enter. The assumption is that fewer JMT hikers will mean less demand on Sunrise and Lyell. Is that assumption a good one? Probably.
I’m less convinced that the second change in policy will do much to alleviate overcrowding. Mr. Dunlavey sees this as a benefit to John Muir Trail thru-hikers, who tend to do much more planning than your average weekend or vacation camper. While that is undoubtedly true, what troubles me is that it makes getting any of those twenty quotas a simple game of chance. The one thing I liked about the “walk-up” permits was the fact that you had much more control. If you were willing to wait in front of the Wilderness Center long enough, you were just about guaranteed to get the permit you wanted.
The Way Ahead
Both of the policy changes I describe above have something in common: their implementation takes place completely within Yosemite. That’s no accident. Crafting a solution that meets the real problem—too much demand on the JMT—will require lots of interagency coordination. What probably makes the most sense is a permit that specifically covers the John Muir Trail. Before that can happen a whole lot of coordination will have to take place, and competing agendas aligned. Once again, what I’ve described above is only an interim solution.
Why I’m Optimistic
We all need to reconcile ourselves to a simple fact: in the future there are going to be fewer hikers on the JMT. For those hikers who score a permit that’s a good thing! For those who try and fail to get the opportunity—not so good.
My discussion with Mr. Dunlavey makes me optimistic for one simple reason: it’s clear he is on our side and that he has our best interests at heart. It’s a balancing act, ensuring that his management practices comport with the myriad of applicable legislation AND keeps the hiking community happy. I think we have an advocate, though, looking out for us.
Keep checking back. I’ll post updates as I know more.
Good hiking, Ray
Without minimizing the significance of the changes, I’d like to point out that the only option isn’t to thru -hike the JMT. There are many other portals and loops that are equally thrilling and enriching.
Very true, Darryl. I think there are tons of great options for those who intend to thru-hike the JMT, but are disappointed when they can’t get the permit. Still, if your goal is to hike the John Muir Trail, this certainly complicates things. Thanks for the comment!
It will be interesting to see how many hikers intending to do a complete thru hike will consider a NOBO hike starting at Horseshoe Meadows. Of course that brings its own set of issues but could end up being the only option if walkup permits are eliminated for SOBO hikes.
Very true, Ravi. Personally, I would still like to go southbound, but a different route. Thanks.
That’s what I was thinking as well, Ravi. I’m *already* planning to switch my hike to NOBO just because I’m having so much trouble getting the permit I want going SOBO (I have only a two week window where I can start the hike if I want to go this year). Getting a Horseshoe Meadow permit right now is easy, so I’m snagging one in case I don’t get my SOBO HI permit…and then releasing it if I do. I figure, hey, if I don’t use it, that’s a $15 donation to Inyo. I can live with that. All of these regulatory changes might deter some people but people who are serious about doing the JMT will find another way…unless they go to a JMT only permit system.
“…unless they go to a JMT only permit system.” I think we will see that within a year or two. Thanks, Jill.
Yeah, I think we will too. In a way, I don’t think that will be a bad thing, even if the number of people who get to do the JMT are fewer. At least that way there aren’t so darn many variables and things are (or should be. Maybe?) cut and dried.
If requests are up 240% from last year, it doesn’t sound like I have much of a chance of scoring an advance permit for the end of July (I start the fax game in a week). Like others, I’ll be searching for other trailheads to leave from. I’m considering entrance at the White Wolf and intersecting the JMT via the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. I have done many other loops as Darryl suggested. However, I’d like to cross this one off my bucket list.
I wouldn’t necessarily be pessimistic, Kate, particularly if you are talking one or two hikers. The new rules may not be in effect by then, and even if they are there will be 20 slots available each day. Good luck!
Kate, I would call too. I did both and by doing that, I increased my chances and they even helped me find a alternate at one point. I had to change my date which worked out better for me and they were so helpful in helping select an alternate trailhead.
Interesting stuff, Ray. Thanks. In the late 1800s, John Waldo — Oregon’s answer to John Muir — was decrying that the wilderness was being trampled to death. He was right. And the JMT folks are right, too. But my hike on the JMT last year and my research for “Cascade Summer: My Adventure on Oregon’s Pacific Crest Trail” (http://amzn.to/YOmq7q) suggest that, from generation to generation, despite constantly having to adapt regulations to fit changing times, both wildernesses are remarkably wild. And we are privileged to walk them.
Couldn’t agree more regarding the “privilege to walk them.” I love being on the trail! Thanks for the comment.
A decrease in JMT hikers would really be unfortunate.
If people don’t learn to appreciate the wilderness, they won’t consider it worth saving. As California becomes more populated and interest in backpacking increases, we need to provide more opportunities for people to get outdoors.
Has Yosemite considered charging more for permits, a lot more? They could use that money to fund the work needed to ameliorate the impact of so many visitors.
Trinka, you and I are on the same wavelength, but I think there are not many of us. First (and I had this discussion with Mr. Dunlavey), I don’t think it is reasonable to manage the John Muir Trail with the expectation that it will be no more crowded than any other trail. The JMT is different. Lots of people who hike the JMT will only have ONE big hiking adventure in their lives. I know, I have met many, many of them on the trail. These folks leave Whitney Portal, get rid of their gear, rarely hike again, but have a profound appreciation for the wilderness. We want these folks on the trail and we want them voting. As far as charging more, I have long been an advocate for putting a certain portion of the permits on eBay to be bid on. But every time I mentioned it only a tiny percentage think it is a good idea. Thanks!
Huh. Ebay. Now that’s a really interesting idea. I think it has merit.
Thanks, Jill! Me, too, but we are in a minuscule minority!
Yeah. Though I wouldn’t want them to do all of them via the highest bidder (or even most). Just a few that let people duke it out with their dollars rather than relying on the luck of the draw.
As someone who had to delay my Jmt departure by one day due to an emergency, I’m sad to hear the proposal to end walk-up permits. I would have been really bummed if I had to cancel my dream trip last year because I needed to delay my departure by one day.
I understand the exit quota and I think that sounds like a good idea. It eliminates the issue of people obtaining alternative permits to hike out. I don’t see how making all permits available for reservation helps with the problems identified.
I’m disappointed as well, Rob. As I mention in the article, the park service sees this as a good thing for potential JMT hikers–almost as a concession (my word, not theirs). The other thing that Mr. Dunlavey mentioned is that the line for walk-up permits is getting to be a problem. Thanks for the comment.
As a local person that goes to Yosemite a lot, it is disturbing to see the huge uptick of people in the park.
What I continue to see is more and more buses entering the park with foreign travelers on the SF to Yosemite to Vegas to LA and home trip.
Rather than charge more for hiking permits, why don’t we charge more for these folks entering our national treasure. Use this funds to increase maint and efforts to fix wilderness problems and reverse some of the issues. Save a specific amount of the permits ( most or all) for Americans, if not we won’t be able to get a permit to hike any easier than lodging in the valley in the middle of summer.
I can understand your frustration, Scott, but I’m not sure many of the tourists entering the park in buses are competing for John Muir Trail permits. That said, I did see quite a couple of foreign groups on the trail the last time I did it. I doubt the park would consider treating them differently, though. Thanks for the comment.
The regulation of the very free PCT thru-hiker permits that allow you to hike and camp anywhere along the trail – as in National Parks and everywhere else – will have to follow for this to work, or anyone capable of internet research will know they just skip the whole entrance problem entirely and start at Tuolumne, or Kennedy Meadows, or Whitney Portal(walk ups are usually available) whenever you feel like.
There will definitely be work-arounds and unintended consequences, and the the park service knows that (and knows that they can’t predict them all). To a certain extent we won’t know exactly how this will work until it is in effect for a while. Thanks for the comment.
Another reason to start in the middle!
http://bit.ly/JMTMoBo
True! Thanks, Byron.
Byron – what a terrific plan! Thanks so much for the creating and sharing the PDF with all the key details clearly spelled out.
I had the opportunity to hike the JMT as a walk up last year. I have full respect for the park service and I understand the need to contribute in order to preserve this wilderness. However, charging or bidding on these permits seems pretty unfair. The random lotto is at least sort of fair. I do not have a lot of money, I worked really hard to earn enough to enjoy this wilderness. I am confused as to how charginga a lot of money would help the fact that some folks do not respect the LNT practices. Everyone deserves to enjoy nature, not just the highest bidder.
Thanks, Jennifer. No one in the park service is considering putting permits up for bid. They would get crushed if they did. That’s just my idea.
Bidding for permits would be an effective way of dealing with scarcity via a price mechanism rather than by random luck or by queuing. Permits are a scarce commodity. Most scarce commodities in our economic system are rationed by price, not randomly or by waiting in line. But that’s usually for things that are private property rather than walking on public lands. It’s a difficult question. Ultimately I don’t think I would support market pricing for wilderness permits.
Almost no one does, Ravi. I am alone in the dark. I could make a more complete case for it (and have!), but I don’t think I’ve ever convinced anyone, so what’s the point beyond hearing myself type? I’m afraid on this issue I hike solo. Thanks for the comment!
I really, really don’t like the idea of open bidding. It completely destroys the concept of a national park and wild land held in trust for the *entire* public. It changes it to a plutocratic privilege: given enough disposable income, someone could spend enough to go when they wanted to, absolutely guaranteed. And that seems so wrong to me in the light of what our national parks, forests, and wilderness is supposed to be. All of us are supposed to be able to have access to these areas to appreciate and cherish. I accept the concept of nominal fees to upkeep the parks and trails and keep them as pristine as possible (I wish the NPS and the forestry service had more funding), as they apply to all of us and they are as I said nominal.
No… if there has to be permits, and there has to be rationing to preserve the environment (and Yosemite needs it), let it be lottery and blind luck or first come first serve. The money bump opening the permits up to open bidding would pale in comparison to the people who would essentially be permanently closed off from experiencing the JMT because they don’t have deep enough pockets.
I’m okay with the modifications I guess, although it probably means my 2016 plans might have to change. Though these things ebb and flow. We’re at a high point of popularity right now. In 5 or 10 years the numbers may drop off again.
Just a thought. Instead, Change the times the thru hikers can start their entrance into the trails. Limit the times of access for them to, say, between 6:00-8:00am. Whenever we hike, we’re always trying to get an early start anyways. Then, allow day hikers access from 9:00am on. These staggered start times would alleviate the congestion on the trails.
As for overuse. That’s a whole other ball of wax.
That is an interesting idea, Matt. Thanks for the comment.
I still think that it would be better if only one agency handles all the permits. Set the rules and every one abide by them.
I am doing a section hike in June. From Happy Isles to Reds Meadows. I am forced to stay the first night in Little Yosemite so we are hiking to Little Yosemite, dropping our gear, and heading straight for Clouds Rest. http://www.hikecalifornia.org/places-to-hike/yosemite-national-park/clouds-rest.html
By forcing us to stay in Little Yosemite, they are definitely creating a problem. For those of us who can hike more than 4 miles a day they are forcing us to hurt the environment more and more just by population alone. In a way they created a problem. We hikers found ways around it, however by forcing 1st nights in certain area’s we have created a greater impact in one area.
I know most people going over the pass will not be utilizing a fire ring due to having to carry the weight of fire wood. So that is not a JMT hiker adding to the fire rings. I don’t know about you but the shipping of fire wood would be expensive and heavy to carry. That would be the weekenders who don’t know much who are adding to the fire rings.
Thanks, Gary. The LYV permits are associated with the Half Dome hike. I think when that permit was first offered it was assumed that almost everyone would spend a night there and then do Half Dome. I have to admit, I avoid LYV whenever possible.
Excellent summary and interpretation Ray.
Since the restrictions being considered at this time seem to effect only the Yosemite end of the JMT, for someone dead-set about hiking the full JMT, it would seem they can avoid both the Yosemite and Whitney permitting issues by starting at the THs that access the passes south of Whitney (for example, Horseshoe Meadows). They can still do the full JMT by going to Whitney from Crabtree, backtracking to Crabtree and then proceeding north. Yes, that a thorough acclimation strategy and/or being in better shape initially, but it can be done. I suspect that in the long-term these type of work-arounds will also have to be addressed in a coordinated way by the agencies if the intent is to put a cap on the number of JMT hikers.
I support the changes Yosemite is considering. I understand it’s sometimes tough to accept change, but having the JMT go through the Yosemite valley and Lyell areas, where millions visit annually, is a competitive situation that is not sustainable. John Muir himself was intimately connected to the Yosemite valley, so yes it’s unfortunate that things have to change But in the long run, leaving the Yosemite valley area, Tuolumne Meadows, and Lyell to the millions of visitors (including us when we’re not hiking the JMT), and re-defining the primary northern trailhead for the JMT as, for example, Dana Meadows is something that makes a lot of sense to me.
Great comment, Fred. I agree completely about the changes Yosemite is contemplating. I’m less enthusiastic regarding redefining the JMT to begin (or end) at Dana Meadows. There is something about starting at Yosemite Valley and ending at Whitney.
i wouldn’t get a permit for any of it if they paid me to do it. we do not need permits to enjoy this earth.
I certainly enjoy this Earth (although I have lived on no other planets for comparison), but if you are going to enjoy this particular stretch of Earth, you need a permit. Thanks for the comment, Tim!
I bet you don’t need a bear canister either, you can throw the rocks from your fire ring at them when they come looking for the candy in your tent……
Touché!
Ray,
Thanks much. Thinking about this summer and walk up permits, I wonder just how bad it could be. Could we see the line form not at 2 am but the day before? Is the NPS concerned about lines and thus are happy to go to all reserved permits?
Rich
Rich, this year is off the charts in every quantifiable measure of John Muir Trail interest. It is really hard to say when people will begin to line up. And, yes, the park service is starting to see the line as a problem. Thanks for the comment!
As a hiking community, it would be nice if we could suggest other thru-hikes that would attract people away from being fixated on the JMT by offering equally satisfying/challenging/beautiful experiences. Maybe promoting specific sections of the PCT? Also, there’s a problem with the terminology: we call the JMT a “thru-hike”, yet we call long sections of the PCT a “section-hike”, even if they’re longer than the JMT. And everyone wants to be a thru hiker, don’t they?
I realize it’s hard to steer people away from something that’s so iconic, but there sure is a whole world of other great hikes out there. Some creativity is in order.
Terrific point, Arla, and I agree completely. Once the new policies take effect I intend to develop some alternatives. There are lots out there! Thanks for the comment.
Ray, after you posted this, I emailed and subsequently talked to Ed Dunlavey. I got additional clarifications from him. One, the thru-pass quota does not deal with those whose permit are issued outside of Yosemite. It deals with the Sunrise-Merced pass-through trailhead quota. I was worried if those who get a permit from Humbolt-Toiyabe could have their permit basically voided as they went through Yosemite. That is not in the works however in the longer run, they do want to work with Humboldt-Toiyabe so there could be changes from Humboldt-Toiyabe. The same is likewise with any of the other federal agencies along the PCT north of Yosemite.
Also, they intend to alter the PDF reservation application so it is clear where one intends to exit Yosemite on the desired permit. This way those who want to go to Illilouette Basin and subsequently south of Yosemite near Clover Meadow will not be impacted by the Donahue Exit Quota that is planned. That is good too. (Same with those who intend to join the JMT in at Rush Creek south of Donahue Pass but start in Yosemite at the Mono Pass TH).
Thanks, Roleigh. In regards to your first point, I got the same information but left it out because I’m not convinced that many will go that route. How many miles would it add to the hike? Off the top of my head, it seems like quite a few. Your second point is a little different than what I was told. As I said in the article, “A hiker would indicate on the permit reservation form that he or she was intending to exit via Donohue.” I remember Mr. Dunlavey specifically saying that there would be a special block to check if you were exiting over that pass. They may have decided to expand that to find out where you are going to exit, even if it isn’t Donohue. Thanks, again.
As of last week, this has changed. Hoover wilderness is no longer issuing ANY permit to those that plan on cutting through Yosemite to join the JMT.
Thanks for the update, Alex.
As a former YNP ranger and veteran of over a dozen JMT through-hikes, plus the PCT plus every summit in Yosemite and every trail in Yosemite, it’s way too easy to circumvent these draconian measures. I will be doing the JMT again in 2017 and as usual I will pull no permit and as usual I will never be caught because I cross-country past the obvious exit points from YNP. I’m old school, been mountaineering since the 1960s — the good old days — and I will never succumb to this madness. Let the lemming masses play this game.
I’m often critical of the National Park Service, and my sympathies certainly run libertarian politically, but the NPS is required to be responsive to the laws passed by Congress and to their customers. That is an extremely difficult task, and it is almost impossible to please everyone. I think they do a pretty good job, all things considered. One thing I am sure of, Van, is that “anything goes” would NOT improve the experience. I can’t agree, but thanks for the comment.