bears

Easy Permit and Long-Weekend Friendly, This JMT Alternative Might be Perfect – Part 2

Published by Ray Rippel on September 10, 2018 4 Permalink

Profile courtesy CalTopo

Last week I described what I consider the perfect alternative to the John Muir Trail for those who cannot get the two or three weeks off, who cannot get a wilderness permit, or for those who would like a one-fifth scale model of the 211-mile JMT to use as a training hike. This week I’ll provide a photo-heavy trip report, and next week I’ll discuss campsite strategies.

If you hike these 43 miles northbound, as I recommend (see the far right of the profile, above, for the reason for starting at the left side), you will begin at the PCT trailhead off Highway 4 near Ebbetts Pass. It doesn’t take long for the scenery to get good. Within the first few miles you will pass Kinney Lake.

Although it’s too early in the hike to look for campsites, there is a open granite bench just down from this sign that is a great spot for a short break and a snack.

A few minutes later you can look back at Kinney Lake from above.

During the first few miles there are enough trees to provide shade during most of the day, and the trail compacted dirt (my favorite). Eventually you break out into more open terrain and the rock formations, much different than you would see in the southern Sierra, become prominent.

The first day (assuming you are going to take three to three-and-a-half days for the entire hike) is rolling, but neither the ascents nor descents are extreme. All in all it’s a great way to spend day one in the woods.

I took my first break, and had second-breakfast, at a saddle between Pennsylvania Creek and Eagle Creek. Pennsylvania Creek was flowing nicely, and that is where I topped off with water for the first time since entering the wilderness. Eagle Creek was dry. Once you leave this spot the ups and downs start to get just a little steeper, and there is far less shade.

For those of you interested in cell coverage, you should know that it is very poor throughout the hike. The only exception is when you reach the highest ground, like this spot with a view of Carson Valley in the distance.

Don’t just enjoy the expansive landscapes; also take the time to admire the smaller views, like this orange and green lichen growing in the deep red rocks.

Day two is mostly climbing, but at least it starts out shaded. I found the first few hours of this second day really enjoyable, as I spent most of that time steadily climbing through forested terrain. Look for deer, Steller’s Jays, and day hikers coming in from Tamarack Lake.

Eventually you break out into open terrain again and continue your climb. The vistas are amazing!

If someone were to show me the photo, above, I would not guess that I was looking at the Sierra Nevada. This has more of a desert-like, almost Monument Valley, look. Forest walking is cool and pleasant, but there is much to be said for a scene like this, where the farthest mountains are more than 100 miles away.

At Carson Pass you will cross Highway 88. You’ll walk by the Carson Pass Wilderness Center, which is worth a peek into, and has a good break area. (It also has a bathroom in a separate building.) There are also ample reminders that you are on the Pacific Crest Trail, including this sign that informs you that if you started in Campo, you have not reached half way. After crossing the highway and doing a little climbing you will enter a large meadow (labeled Showers Meadow on some maps). This is where I saw an adolescent bear hurrying across to the forest on the other side.

The last day begins as the first did, with rolling terrain that progressively gets higher. My last break came at Showers Lake, above, where I had some GORP and got my last water for the trip.

The trip will end with a steep descent of a few miles, during which you will often be treated to views of Lake Tahoe.

I hope I’ve given you a sense of this wonderful trek through some terrain that it well worth your time. Next week I’ll talk about where to camp.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, JMT-alternatives, maps, training

Five Books for Your Sierra Nevada Library

Published by Ray Rippel on August 20, 2018 2 Permalink

Planning your John Muir Trail hike may not be quite as much fun as actually walking the trail, but it can be a significant part of the enjoyment. If you’re a reader, learning about the mountains you are about to wander through can be fascinating. Here are five volumes you might want to add to your library.

Norman Clyde: Legendary Mountaineer of California’s Sierra Nevada by Robert C. Pavlik. If there is anyone who knew the Sierra Nevada even better than John Muir, Norman Clyde is the guy. Clyde had over a hundred of first ascents credited to him, and was a key player in Sierra Nevada search and rescue before it was even called search and rescue. In 1920, he travelled the approximate path of the John Muir Trail, long before it was known as such, from Happy Isles to the Evolution Valley. You can’t read this book without concluding that men were made of sturdier stuff back then.

Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country by Steve Roper. I don’t know if I’ll ever try this route, but I sure enjoyed reading about it. Roper’s text describes a hike – almost all of which is off-trail – that is extraordinarily difficult, and he has been accused by some of making it sound easier than it actually is. If you have ever wondered what it would be like to hike the John Muir Trail before there was any trail, this is probably as good an account as any.

History of the Sierra Nevada by Francis P. Farquhar. This is one of my favorites. If you are only going to read one book about the Gentle Wilderness, this has to be it. Would you like to even enjoy this book more? Keep a good map of the Sierra Nevada near you while you are reading and refer to it often.

Galen Rowell’s Sierra Nevada by Galen Rowell. This book of gorgeous photography is hard to find – and will likely cost more than a few bucks – but it is well worth it if you are appreciative of the finest Sierra Nevada photography. As a photographer I am amazed by what Mr. Rowell was able to get straight out of his camera. These photos were made well before the era of digital photo editors, but were beautifully composed using a variety of neutral-density filters and, most of all, by getting his camera places where few could go.

Speaking of Bears: The Bear Crisis and a Tale of Rewilding from Yosemite, Sequoia, and Other National Parks by Rachel Mazur. Ever wonder how we got to the point where we are all carrying our treats in bear-proof canisters? As you might imagine, it’s an interesting story. Mazur’s book covers more than just the Sierra Nevada, but after reading it you’ll never look at our ursine friends quite the same.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, books, history

Dealing with Pests on the John Muir Trail

Published by Ray Rippel on March 12, 2018 4 Permalink

“Nice backpack you got there, buddy. It would a shame if something happened to it.”

To paraphrase Andrew Skurka (from his terrific book, The Ultimate Hiker’s Gear Guide) there are two types of fun: Type 1 Fun is fun to do and fun to have done, while Type 2 Fun is fun to have done, but not so fun to do. Thankfully, thru-hiking the John Muir Trail is definitely Type 1 Fun (at least for most people). That doesn’t mean that you will be comfortable at all times. The various pests you may encounter along the way are unlikely to ruin your hike – or even your afternoon – but knowing what they are and how to mitigate their impact is a handy skill to have.

Other Hikers. This happens less frequently than you might expect. You will see people every day on your hike, unless you are well outside the normal season, but they are almost invariable pleasant, polite, and well informed regarding trail etiquette (like Leave No Trace). There are rare exceptions. For me, the worst was a group of about a dozen I encountered a few years ago. They were using an itinerary very close to mine, were loud, and consisted of hikers who walked at different speeds, almost all of whom were faster than me. They also liked to take breaks every forty-five minutes to an hour. Typically I would first see them early in the morning as they passed me. Then I would pass them while they took a break. Then they would pass me; them me them, etc., etc, etc. After three days of this I had to do something. What I ended up doing was spending a half-day longer in camp and adjusting my proposed campsites for the rest of the trip. That did the trick! I didn’t see them again until Guitar Lake.

If you encounter a hiker or hikers who are spoiling your experience you need to do one of two things: either get ahead of them (perhaps by getting up a few hours earlier and making some more miles) or let them get ahead of you.

Bears. I’ve written about bears before, but they have almost ceased to be a problem since we all started carrying bear canisters. Where might you still have a run in with an unwelcome ursine guest? The most likely areas are those where you will find the most people: Little Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, Lyell Canyon, near the Devils Postpile, and the Rae lakes area. That’s not to say that there are not bears all along the trail – there are! But bears associate humans with easy food mostly were there are lots of people without bear canisters. Keep your scented items in your canister and you will be fine.

Marmots (and other small mammals). It’s possible – even likely – that you will hike your entire hike without seeing a bear. You will see marmots almost every day. Oh, and they know where you keep your goodies: right in the colorful backpack you leaned against that boulder before wandering off to get water. The further bad news is that they do not know how to operate zippers. Instead, they will chew right through whatever fabric separates them from the meal within. A few simple rules have kept me from being burglarized over the years: keep all scented items in your canister; during breaks, keep your backpack close at hand; and at night hang your backpack from a tree. Hanging your backpack at night is a good idea even though it doesn’t have anything edible in it. The sweat-soaked straps on the pack are an excellent source of salt.

Mosquitos. The best way to avoid these bloodsuckers is to hike late in the season. Failing that, you can still avoid the worst while you hike by wearing pants (instead of shorts) and a long sleeved shirt, applying some DEET, and using a headnet. I’ve walked through a virtual fog of insects using this technique without getting a single bite. To avoid them while on breaks and camping overnight, get your water along the trail, then find a spot at least four or five hundred yards from the nearest water source. You should find that it will be relatively insect free, especially if there is a bit of a breeze and little shade.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, obstacles, wildlife

Five Things I Dislike about Hiking the John Muir Trail

Published by Ray Rippel on May 5, 2015 13 Permalink

Readers of this blog know that I am a huge fan of the John Muir Trail, and, more generally, hiking in the Sierra Nevada. In fact, I like to call myself the unofficial chief evangelist of the JMT. I’m counting the days until my next adventure.

But that doesn’t mean it’s all beautiful views, clear water, and friendly marmots who sit on rocks and cheer as I walk by. There are a few things I don’t miss a bit when I finally leave the trail. Here are my top five:

#5. Yosemite Valley in August. I am not a Yosemite Valley snob. I love the valley and I enjoy spending time there. I got married there! Even I have to admit, though, that a hot, dusty, crowded August weekend is not a time when the valley is on its best behavior. Not only is it hot, dusty, and crowded, no one in the crowd seems to be having a very good time. Mostly I see people who are there because they felt they had to check it out while they were in California. They want to check the block and get the heck out. No fun.

#4. Groups who have no idea what the rules are. During my last thru-hike I camped my first night out of Red’s Meadow near Purple Lake. Once I got my tent set up I decided to walk back down the trail, to the lake, for water. While on the trail, I tripped and nearly fell on my face. My tripping isn’t all that surprising; I’m not known for being particularly graceful. Except that I tripped on a tent rope, staked ACROSS the trail. A group of about a dozen hikers had camped right next to the trail and right next to the lake. Later that night, they had a good sized fire, despite the fact that they were prohibited. I found out later that the group had been earlier fined for camping at the Thousand Island Lake outlet stream. Apparently, no one learned a lesson.

#3. The middle third of the descent from the summit to Whitney Portal. Hard to believe after all the climbing you do on the John Muir Trail, but the stretch I dread the most goes downhill. It comes after the switchbacks, going to the portal. I’m always amazed that I still have knees when I’m done.

#2. Not sleeping the first few nights. As I tinker with my sleeping gear, this has gotten a little bit better, but I still have problems at least the first two or three nights on the ground. A good sleeping pad helps, as does making sure you don’t get cold. Part of it is just psychological, especially since I am almost always camping alone. You never know what might be lurking out there!

#1. The smell inside my bear canister. I look at bear canisters sort of how I look at dentistry—my life would be SO much more unpleasant without it, but that doesn’t mean I have to like it. Trying to stuff a canister into a reasonably sized backpack so that it is both in the right spot, weight and balance wise, and near the top, so that you can get to it for lunch, is nearly impossible. What is the worst, however, is the strange alchemy that takes place as the aromas from the different items within it blend. Despite the fact that they all, individually, smell pretty good, the combination is disgusting. I’m half tempted to leave it open at night to air out, but I’m afraid I’d scare all the bears away, and I really do like seeing them from time to time.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, campsites, gear, people, psychology

Wildlife on the Trail

Published by Ray Rippel on February 24, 2015 Respond Permalink

Deer are often spotted on the trail and are sometimes, literally, ON the trail!

There are many, many pleasures that come with walking the John Muir Trail. High on the list are wildlife sightings. Especially if you are hiking alone, and quietly, rarely will a day go by that I don’t see something memorable. Here are my top ten:

10. An American Dipper. I saw this little guy near Helen Lake and had no idea what I was looking at until it started diving into the brook that ran near my campsite and completely submerging! To see such behavior from a bird that does not look “aquatic” at all was unusual.

9. Clark’s Nutcracker. The real treat of seeing this bird came later when I did some research about it. It is quite the story! (Be sure to read Aria’s comment, too.)

8. Three deer at my breakfast spot one morning. You will see deer more days than not on your thru-hike, and they rarely are disturbed by your presence. What made this encounter so memorable was how close they were and the obvious curiosity. It made for one of my favorite wildlife photos I’ve taken.

“I don’t know, kids, if he is going to start walking or if he is just going to stand there and fiddle around with his gear all day!”

7. A friendly pika. This little critter lived next to Lake Virginia. You will hear the pikas far more often than you see one, so an opportunity like this doesn’t come often.

6. A large raptor up close. This came on a hike with my wife, somewhere between Red’s Meadow and Lake Edison. We were in a fairly heavy forest where the trees were close enough together to give us limited visibility, so when it came directly at us–with a wingspan of at least four feet–it made quite the impression. When it spotted us it immediately made a hard left bank, which displayed it’s size and gorgeous feathers. I’m not sure because it all happened so quick, but I think it was a red-tailed hawk.

5. The dog at Muir Trail Ranch who fetches pine cones. Okay, so this isn’t exactly wildlife, but when was the last time you played fetch with a pine cone?

4. Sneaking up behind a coyote. Wildlife encounters happen frequently, but it’s rare that you see them before they see you! This was a fun meeting simply because I spent several minutes sneaking up behind a predator. When he finally saw me he was not happy!

3. The Great Squirrel Incident. A story of courage (not really) in the wilderness.

2. Lots of friendly marmots. If the JMT has an official mascot, this must be it. It’s unbelieveable how close they are willing to come to satisfy their curiosity. They are colorful, friendly, and are ubiquitous over 10,000 feet elevation.

1. Three bears. This occurred on the first day of my first thru-hike of the JMT. What a way to start! Although we all carry bear canisters to secure our food, bear sightings are actually much less frequent than you might expect. (Bears are much more frequently seen in Yosemite Valley. I’ve seen them around many trailheads, and have even seen a couple from the dining room at the Ahwahnee!) My only other encounter near the John Muir Trail came a few days later, not far from Garnet Lake, when a bear played with my nearly empty canister for several minutes. I listened until my ursine guest finally gave up and then I rolled over and went back to sleep. Seeing a bear is a treat; if you get the opportunity, enjoy it!

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, wildlife

About the bears…

Published by Ray Rippel on January 6, 2015 5 Permalink

Have you ever encountered something (a lot) larger than you in the woods? I’m not talking about a cow in a pasture, I mean something that weighs three of four times what you do, and has claws, teeth, and a reputation for a certain amount of ferocity.

That happy incident occurred to me on the very first day of my first John Muir Trail thru-hike.

The climb out of Yosemite Valley (which begins at Happy Isles) has a reputation for being tough. It certainly was for me. I climbed 4,500 feet on the first day, but the trail was wide, even and well maintained—more like walking on a sidewalk. I also had lots of day-hiker friends heading for Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, or Half Dome, to buoy me along. It was never crowded enough to be unpleasant but I was always aware of people being around me.

All that changed once I passed the Half Dome trail intersection; the woods got quiet. I was alone and walking on dirt so even though I wasn’t trying to move stealthily I was hardly making a sound.

As I turned the corner I actually spotted the two cubs, first, just to the right of the trail. They were scrounging around under a fallen log. I stopped in my tracks and immediately looked for mama bear.

She was on the left of the trail, completely oblivious to me, also looking for a late lunch.

Despite being more excited than scared (I’m sure I had a huge grin on my face), I realized that there was a potentially bad situation here. One thing’s for sure: I wasn’t going try to sneak between mama and the kids. I considered retreating, but for how long? I had only managed about seven of the 211 miles that I had ahead of me; it was a little early in the game to start backtracking.

I got out my camera and snapped a couple of photos. Then I alerted all the four-pawed animals in the area that I was there with a quick yell. Three sets of bear eyes were on me in a split second.

The two cubs immediately started running over to mom, although they stopped a couple of times to get a better look at the strange guy with a big red hump on his back. Eventually mom got them behind her and she turned her attention to me.

She rose up on her back legs just a bit, shouted a half-hearted growl in my direction, and then spun around and headed away with the kids. My bear encounter (one of two on the trail) was over.

Almost the entire JMT is within prime bear habitat, but (somewhat counter-intuitively) encounters are more common the closer you are to civilization. Although you might see one anywhere the most likely places are: Little Yosemite Valley, Lyell Canyon, anywhere else within Yosemite, Thousand Island Lake and Garnet Lake. Each of these locales has something in common: lots of people with food, often carelessly stored.

A bear encounter can be thrilling! Just make sure you don’t encounter one eating your dinner. Keep everything with a scent in your canister.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, wildlife

What Surprised Me About My JMT Thru-Hike

Published by Ray Rippel on December 23, 2014 10 Permalink

Every day of a JMT thru-hike brings surprises, mostly in regards to fauna. You’ll turn a corner and discover a gang of deer (often right on the trail), a coyote (prowling for lunch) or a friendly marmot (hoping to trade the perfect pose on a rock for a hunk of human food). Sometimes the animals are quite a bit bigger.

The scenery may surprise you, simply because you can’t imagine it getting any better, and then it does. And does again. And again.

I remember more subtle surprises as well. Here are some of my more memorable ones.

A different sense of what a mile is (or a kilometer, if you prefer). There are places on the trail where I could look back and see a spot several miles behind me—a spot where I was standing just a few hours before. Sure, I knew mathematically and geographically what a mile was, but seeing just how far a person can travel, on foot, always amazed me. Then I started transposing the distances I’d travel in a day or two on the trail to my home geography (in my case the island of Oahu). The distance I would travel in one trail day would equate to walking from my home on the southeast side of the island all the way to downtown Honolulu, with substantially less elevation gain. I would never consider walking that!

How little I wanted to eat. What’s your favorite snack? Chocolate? Cookies? Nuts? On a good day I can probably pass on the chocolate and cookies, but there’s no resisting almonds and walnuts. Now, imagine looking at a single walnut half and thinking to yourself that there is no way you can eat the whole thing. Such was my experience on the trail. I have no idea where my appetite went, but it was nowhere to be found. Interestingly enough, when I got to the snack bar in Tuolumne Meadows, the Mule House Café in Red’s Meadow, and the dining room at Muir Trail Ranch, I ate like a horse. Not so on the trail. Judging by the wealth of goodies at the hiker’s barrels at Muir Trail Ranch, I wasn’t the only one who experienced this phenomenon.

How quickly the days went, or, to put it another way, how I never got bored. I’ve loved the Sierra Nevada since I was a pre-teen, but it occurred to me that I might get a little bored on day ten, or fifteen, of the hike. Never happened. On days when I walked until dusk I never wearied of the experience (although I was plenty weary). Days when I reached my campsite by 3:30 p.m. and then explored—were even better. I can remember thinking, as I left Muir Trail Ranch, that nine uninterrupted days in the woods would be a very long time. It went by in a flash. You may be tempted to bring an iPod to listen to music or books while you’re walking. You, too, may fear the boredom. My recommendation: leave it at home.

Part of the joy of the trail is the change in perspective. “Normal” out there is a little different than “normal” at home. These were some of my surprises; yours may be different. All will be worth experiencing.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, psychology

The Latest on Bear Canisters

Published by Ray Rippel on December 2, 2014 23 Permalink

If you are going to thru-hike the John Muir Trail, you are going to need a bear canister. They may be heavy, unwieldy, and a nuisance, but they also are enormously effective. Which one should you use?

There are two ways to look at it, depending on what you most want to avoid: pressure on the bottom of your feet or pressure on your wallet. The two tables, below, should help.

By the way, links to all these options can be found here.

Good hiking, Ray

UPDATE: The two tables have been updated to incorporate the lid and handle on the two Lighter1 canisters. Since the lid may be used as a pot and bowl the manufacturers do not include that weight into the canister.

UPDATE 2: Please don’t look for a BearVault 550…there isn’t one! I should be BearVault 500. Sorry for the typo, and thanks to DM for spotting it!

UPDATE 3: Small adjustment on the BareBoxer weight, and I added a graph!

Bear-Canisters-Least-Expensive-per-Day-3

Want to save a few bucks? This table is for you.

More interested in saving some ounces? Here you go!

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, canisters, gear

Grading My John Muir Trail Thru-Hike Gear Choices: Bear Canister

Published by Ray Rippel on November 26, 2013 9 Permalink

In previous posts I’ve discussed my sleeping bag, sleeping pad, stove, tent, and water purification strategy. If you go back and read those entries be sure to read the comments. There are a lot of great suggestions there.

Before I describe my bear canister, here’s a bit more regarding the rules behind their use.

There are stretches on the John Muir Trail where bear canisters are not mandatory; this map shows where canisters are required and where they are not. Here’s the thing, though: in the areas where canisters aren’t required, the only legal alternative is to counterbalance your food.

Like the Sasquatch, this tree (suitable for a proper counterbalance) is rumored to exist but has never been sighted in the Sierra Nevada.

Counterbalancing is hard to do, effectively, and means that instead of trudging around at the end of the day looking for an empty, flat, legal campsite (which isn’t always easy to find), you are trudging around looking for an empty, flat, legal campsite near a tree with the perfectly placed branch growing from it’s side.

Good luck with that. The practical solution is to carry a canister throughout.

I’ve written about the Wild Ideas canisters before, and after my latest thru-hike I’m as convinced as ever: the Bearikade is your best choice. Although I’ve rented in the past, a few years back I went ahead and purchased a Bearikade Scout. I’ve carried it ever since. (Since I do most of my Sierra Nevada hikes solo, and since I don’t bring much food, a small canister is all I need.)

The Bearikades are the lightest, do a great job of protecting your food, and come in lots of different sizes.

If you decide to rent instead of buy, and if you are hiking the John Muir Trail, you can even call them (805-693-0550) for a substantial discount.

Purchasing, however, may be the better way to go. Why? Because you can have your canister custom made to hold precisely what you want. (They do that by varying the length of the cylinder, not by changing the diameter.) Want a canister that holds a couple of cubic liters more? Order a canister a couple of inches longer. Since the carbon-fiber material in the middle is the lightest part of the canister, you gain less than two ounces of weight per extra inch of length. Continue reading →

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, canisters, gear, John Muir Trail, safety, wildlife

The Best Bear Canister for the John Muir Trail

Published by Ray Rippel on August 6, 2013 10 Permalink

Note: I am about three-and-a-half weeks away from my first step 
on the trail. I leave Happy Isles August 23rd and intend to summit 
Whitney early September 12th. In six days I'll leave home (for a 
business trip and then to acclimate to the elevation for a few days 
in Mammoth Lakes, California). That's my excuse for the next 
several blog posts to be a bit shorter than usual. 
Also, none of the next seven posts will reference current events; 
all will be written at the end of July or early August. I’ll be 
back in mid-September with more stories from the trail!

Is there a better bunch of people than those we interact with before and during a John Muir Trail hike? I’ve never met a more universally friendly bunch. From the hikers you meet on the trail, to the Rangers, the folks at the Wilderness Center, the staff of Red’s/VVR/MTR, and the owners & employees of the businesses we depend upon for gear, they all seem to be just plain nice people. Sure, we can all think of exceptions to that generalization (I approached a Ranger in McClure Meadow one day and got scolded for bothering him on his day off), but, in general, I always seem to run into terrific people who love what they’re doing.

Courtesy Wild-Ideas.net website.

Add to that list the folks at Wild Ideas (the people behind the Bearikade Scout, Weekender and Expedition). I’ve had the pleasure of interacting with them three times, twice to rent a canister and once to buy. Each instance was characterized by courtesy, friendliness, and a sense that I was talking with someone who actually understands what it’s like out on the trail.

They also offer a substantial (as in more than 40%) discount to John Muir Trail thru-hikers!

Of course, great customer service can’t make up for an inferior product. The good news is that, at least in my opinion, they make the best bear canister around. Why? Because it’s the lightest, it comes in more sizes, and it can even be purchased in custom sizes to fit perfectly into your backpack of choice.

I know nothing about the people behind Wild Ideas and have no financial interest in the company; this is just one man’s opinion. Give them and their product a try; I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: bears, canisters, gear, John Muir Trail, people, wildlife

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