Linger-Here

Places to Linger: Marie Lakes Trail Junction – Silver Pass

Published by Ray Rippel on April 16, 2018 2 Permalink

The first entry in this series covered Happy Isles to the intersection with the Marie Lakes Trail. This installment takes us all the way to Silver Pass.

Thousand Island Lake (~ 43 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If you’ve done any research at all about the John Muir Trail, you’ve probably seen Thousand Island Lake. It is one of the most photographed terrain features on the entire trail, and for good reason. The lake is one of the largest you’ll encounter on your entire trip, and it is dotted with many small granite islands. (With all due respect to Theodore Solomons, who allegedly named the body of water, there are significantly fewer than 1,000 islands.) Camping near the outlet stream is strictly prohibited, but there are some fine sites south of the trail at least 100 feet from the northern shoreline.

Garnet Lake (~ 45 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Garnet Lake is like the sophisticated sister who gets less attention than her flamboyant sibling, but she rewards the hiker with the more discriminating taste. You also have to work a little harder to find a good (and legal) campsite. They are there, though, and the views of both Banner Peak and Mount Ritter, particularly in the morning, are memorable.

Rosalie Lake (~ 48 miles from Happy Isles) Map. This is a great spot for a break as the trail passes with a few feet of the lake. But pass up the lake view this time and try this: walk just a couple hundred feet east for some terrific views of the same valley where Agnew Meadow is located. There are even a few small camping spots to be found.

The Mulehouse Cafe, Red’s Meadow (~ 57 miles from Happy Isles) Map. The finest patty-melts known to man, great pies, terrific breakfasts, plumbing, washers, dryers, and a mattress if you are so inclined. No french fries, though.

Purple Lake (~ 71 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If you started the day at Red’s Meadow, and you are averaging 10 – 15 miles per day, this is a great place to spend the night. The alpenglow at Purple Lake, assuming a sunny afternoon, is the best during the first half of the hike. Resist the temptation to camp near the outlet stream, as that is prohibited. The better sites are south of the lake and up the hill a bit, anyway.

Lake Virginia (~ 73 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If you are carrying a light load and are walking a bit faster, this is a better camping area than Purple Lake. The next morning, get up early and cross the inlet creek for some great views across the lake. Lake Virginia is widely considered one of the real gems of the northern half of the John Muir Trail.

From Tully Hole to the Tully Hole Bridge (~ 73 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Tully Hole is known for its swarms of mosquitos, but I must smell so bad by the time I get there that they refuse to have anything to do with me, because I’ve not had a problem. Although the stretch from Tully Hole to the bridge isn’t a great place for camping, it is quite scenic. Plan a break there.

Next week, we’ll press on to the middle fifth of the trail.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: campsites, Linger-Here

Places to Linger: Happy Isles – Marie Lakes Trail Junction

Published by Ray Rippel on April 10, 2018 9 Permalink

The view from Upper Cathedral Lake is amazing.

Here’s one of my best tips for enjoying your hike of the John Muir Trail: SIT DOWN every once in awhile!

Yes, I know you have your miles to walk each day, but hurrying past everything is no way to get the most out of your hike. (One way get your miles-per-day, by the way, and still have time for leisurely breaks, is to start early.)

For the next five posts I’m going to list some of my favorite spots to drop my backpack and take in the surroundings. Some will be great places to camp, others will be a great place to take a break, take a picture, or, perhaps, take a nap!

Top of Nevada Fall (~ 3.3 miles from Happy Isles) Map: I always take my first significant break of my hike at the top of Nevada Fall. I can’t think of a better place to pause, refresh, and regroup. By the time you reach the bridge over the Merced you will have ascended to almost 2,000 feet above the valley floor. If you’re stopping at Little Yosemite Valley, it means you’ve knocked off almost all of the climbing for the day.

The views from either side of the bridge (be sure to explore both) are amazing, the granite is flat & warmed by the sun, and, of course, the Merced surging over the lip of the fall is something to see.

There will normally be a dozen or more day-hikers in the area, who have either reached their goal for the day, or are heading on to the top of Half Dome. Enjoy their company; you’ll not see their likes again for a few days.

Sunrise High Sierra Camp (~13.9 miles from Happy Isles) Map: it’s not the view that recommends this spot, it’s the potable water and the companionship. Spend an hour or two here and I can almost guarantee you that someone interesting will pass by and start a conversation. Perhaps it will be a Ranger, a worker at the camp, or a fellow hiker. Regardless, they’ll have the latest skinny on what is going on in the area.

Upper Cathedral Lake (~3.6 miles from Sunrise Camp) Map: this is one of my favorite spots on the entire trail. The views of Cathedral Peak are terrific, and the lake itself sports a granite peninsula that juts out into the water like a pier. There are good camping grounds on the south and west sides. My recommendation is that you spend the night here, even if it means you camp early. A few hours exploring the lake will be time well spent. If you can’t stay the night, I’ve always found the serenity of the place perfect for a midday nap.

Lower Cathedral Lake (~1.5 miles past Upper Cathedral Lake) Map: this is a little more than a half mile off the trail, but it’s worth an extra few steps. If you decide you must get a little past the upper lake, consider stopping here instead.

Tuolumne Meadows (between 21 and 24.6 miles from Happy Isles) Map: cheeseburgers, fries, resupply, plumbing, and a night on a mattress if you’re so inclined. Need I say more?

Lots of Places Along the Tuolumne River in Lyell Canyon: if there is a single stretch of the John Muir Trail that stands out above all others, this is it. You will climb so slowly that you hardly notice and your constant companion will be the river. The great places to stop are almost unlimited, but my favorite is here.

The lake just below Donohue Pass (~7.5 miles from Tuolumne Meadows) Map: perched at the edge of the tree line, this little lake is a fabulous place to spend the night. Avoid the illegal campsite near the water and instead turn east and explore the higher ground. In the morning, cross the outlet stream to continue on up to Donohue Pass.

Rush Creek Drainage (~between 1 and 3 miles south of Donohue Pass) Map & Map: after the monumental scenery of Yosemite, the more subtle beauty of the Rush Creek drainage is a welcome change. Countless brooks and streams meander through short grass, all dotted with granite and stunted trees. It’s has all the feng shui of a well-tended Asian garden without a single gardener. The first portion is great for breaks; the latter portion better for camping.

Next week, the adventure continues.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: campsites, Linger-Here

A JMT Gem: Sallie Keyes Lakes

Published by Ray Rippel on April 2, 2018 8 Permalink

Looking back onto Sallie Keyes Lakes.

I think the most picturesque place on the entire John Muir Trail is Marie Lake. I always make an effort to camp there. There are lots of places that are a close second, though, and Sallie Keyes Lakes is one of them. Here is why:

It’s has a beauty all its own. The reason there are two Sallie Keyes Lakes is because a triangular isthmus runs between the eastern and western bodies of water. If you are hiking southbound, that isthmus starts narrow and widens as you move south. That land in the middle includes a small hill which is a great place to take a break.

It’s also a great place for breakfast. If you camp at Marie Lake the night before (like I do), you’ll reach Sallie Keyes less than a couple of hours after leaving camp. I like to get some distance behind me before I eat my morning meal, and this is about as nice a place you could pick to do so. There is lots of water for cooking and refilling your container of choice, trees to provide shade (something you will see less and less of as you move south), and several downed trees to provide a seat or backrest.
The trail runs very close to the water. Water is almost everywhere on the JMT, but you don’t get to hike right next to it all the time. Even less frequently do you walk within a few feet of a lake and stay under a nice canopy of tree limbs.
You will have just passed over your third major pass. Seldon Pass is less than two miles to the north, so you will still have that wonderful glow that comes with putting a pass behind you. You will experience that feeling six more times on the trial: once for the other five passes and once when you come down off the summit of Mount Whitney.
You will arrive at Muir Trail Ranch in just a few hours and it is almost all downhill. Whether you are spending two nights and a zero day, one night, or just getting your resupply and moving on, it’s always a treat to descend into MTR. When you leave you will have more than half of the trail behind you!

Don’t rush by Sallie Keyes Lakes; linger a while and enjoy one of the real gems on the JMT!

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: Linger-Here

Places to Linger: Muir Pass to Pinchot Pass

Published by Ray Rippel on June 19, 2017 Respond Permalink

We continue our tour of great places for breaks, naps, or campsites, this time reviewing the penultimate forty miles of the trail.

Best creep by this sleeping carnivore!

Man-Eating Rock (~ 133 miles from Happy Isles) Map. The man-eating rock in LeConte Canyon is no work of art, but after a couple of weeks on the trail, you have to snicker a bit. Yes, it’s a pretty obvious example of a leave-no-trace violation, and, no, I wouldn’t recommend that anyone repeat the gag anywhere else, but I’d be lying if I said it doesn’t make me chuckle, every time I see it. Since it’s in LeConte Canyon, it also happens be in a particularly scenic area. There are lots of camping areas, near water, from this granite creature all the way until Big Pete Meadow.

Grouse Meadow (~ 137 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Grouse Meadow ought to be overrun by mosquitos, but I’ve never encountered a single flying pest during my stops there. (Of course, I’ve only experienced it late in the year.) What I have seen is an ideal example of a Sierra Nevada meadow: a winding stream running through an ocean of green, surrounded by pine forest and granite. If you can’t camp here, at least stop for a long break.

Lower Palisade Lake (~ 146 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Once you make it to the top of the Golden Staircase, you’ll be ready for a breather. Lower Palisade Lake has water, level campsites, scenery, and (fortunately or unfortunately) company, in the form of other hikers.

The outlet stream from Lake Marjorie.

Lake Marjorie (~ 158 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If you are intending to stay on the north side of Pinchot Pass, this is a great place to spend the night. The shear wall to the west of the lake is impressive in the morning light, and the campgrounds are plentiful and level. Once you get settled, explore the area around the outlet stream of Lake Marjorie.

Next week, the last forty miles of trail.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: campsites, Linger-Here

Places to Linger: Silver Pass to Muir Pass

Published by Ray Rippel on June 5, 2017 Respond Permalink

Lake Marie just before sunset. Try to spend the night here, but failing that, don’t hurry by.

We continue our tour of great places for breaks, naps, or campsites, this time reviewing the middle fifth of the trail. For previous posts, look here and here.

Coming Down Into Pocket Meadow (~ 82 miles from Happy Isles) Map. It’s only seven miles from the top of Silver Pass to the bridge over Mono Creek, and it’s almost all downhill. Why then, does it take so darned long? Why not split up the stretch with a long break? This is a terrific place for just that, particularly if, like me, you soak your feet at lunchtime.

Along Bear Creek (~ 92 miles from Happy Isles) Map. This is another spot that isn’t great for camping, but is ideal for a break or a long lunch. Many people dread the walk up Bear Ridge, but I actually enjoy the climb. I think the reason I have a different opinion is that I get an early start, when all fifty-two switchbacks are in the shade. (Tip: don’t carry a bunch of water from your campsite, below. There is a spring about two-thirds of the way up where I have always topped off.)

Not long after you get to the top Bear Creek will appear at your side. There are lots of places to stop and enjoy the water, but this is a good one!

Marie Lake (~ 99 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If I had to pick a single spot that was my favorite on the trail, this would be it. If you spend the night here, you will have to end the day with a decent climb, but it is well worth it. Everything wonderful about a John Muir Trail hike is right before you: water so clear it’s almost invisible; trees that appear to be shaped with the eye of an artist; towering granite peaks; and views up canyons that seem to go on forever.

If that isn’t enough to persuade you to stop, consider where you are in relation to Selden Pass and Muir Trail Ranch. If you camp at Marie Lake you’ll be over the pass less than an hour after you start walking (after climbing just a few hundred feet), and you’ll be at Muir Trail Ranch before lunch. If you are like me, and spend two nights at MTR, that gives you an extra twelve hours of rest and the opportunity to take an extra soak in their sumptuous, hot-springs-fed, bath facilities. If your plan doesn’t allow an overnight at Marie Lake, at least plan a long lunch there.

Isthmus Between Sallie Keyes Lake (~ 103 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If for some reason you decide to pass Marie Lake, the isthmus between the two Sallie Keyes Lakes is wonderful as well. Starting out no more than 30 feet wide, and never exceeding more than about 850 feet wide, this is a place I always stop, even though I arrive there not long after I depart Marie Lake in the morning. I don’t believe the isthmus has a name, so I call it the Breakfast Strip.

Near Evolution Creek (~ 115 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Before you slip off your footwear and wade across Evolution Creek, you’ll pass by these cascades and deep pools of water. Break out those sandwiches you made at MTR before you left and enjoy a long, leisurely, lunch.

This middle part of the JMT is truly one of the best stretches on the trail. Not only that, when you leave Muir Trail Ranch, well rested, well fed, and well marinated in the tubs, you’ll have passed the halfway point.

Good hiking, Ray

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Places to Linger: Marie Lakes Trail Junction to Silver Pass

Published by Ray Rippel on May 15, 2017 2 Permalink

The first entry in this series covered Happy Isles to the intersection with the Marie Lakes Trail. This installment takes us all the way to Silver Pass.

Garnet Lake (~ 45 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Garnet Lake is like the more sophisticated sister who gets less attention than her more flamboyant sibling, but she rewards the hiker with the more discriminating taste. You also have to work a little harder to find a good (and legal) campsite. They are there, though, and the views of both Banner Peak and Mount Ritter, particularly in the morning, are memorable.

Purple Lake (~ 71 miles from Happy Isles) Map. If you started the day at Red’s Meadow, and you are averaging 10 – 15 miles per day, this is a great place to spend the night. The alpenglow at Purple Lake, assuming a sunny afternoon, is the best during the first half of the hike. Resist the temptation to camp near the outlet stream as that is prohibited. The better sites are south of the lake and up the hill a bit, anyway.

Next week, we’ll press on to the middle fifth of the trail.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: Linger-Here

The Perfect Break

Published by Ray Rippel on February 8, 2016 4 Permalink

Those of you who have been reading the blog for years know that I don’t claim to be an expert on all things backpacking related, but I am a profoundly appreciative connoisseur of one thing: the hour-long, deeply satisfying, self indulgent, trail-side break. There is nothing I enjoy more!

Like most things, you will get a better experience if you put some thought into it. Here’s what I look for:

~ A Great Spot. I even go as far as doing a satellite map reconnaissance for places weeks before I hit the trailhead. Here are the key ingredients: a flat area with a view, some shade, some water, a sunny area so I can recharge batteries with my solar panel, and the right distance from my last stop (and my next one). A perfect example is this spot on the way to Donohue Pass. If you needs some ideas, check this out.

~ Re-Hydrate. I carry a bladder, so I do much of my drinking while I’m walking. When I take a break I’ll often break out the drink powder and mix up a Nalgene bottle’s worth of something flavored. This is also how I get my caffeine on the trail, since I don’t drink coffee.

~ Some Snacks. If you aren’t snacking during your breaks there is probably something wrong. Most likely you are dehydrated or you are suffering a mild (if there are no other symptoms) case of altitude sickness. Or you brought the wrong food. So many people decide that they are going to “eat healthy” on the trail and bring food that they end up not eating. (Thus, the overflowing hikers barrells at Muir Trail Ranch.) I once carried sweets for breaks, but I no longer do so. After years of trial and error I have gone full circle and tend to eat during a break what I did thirty years ago: GORP (the simple, unimproved version of “good old raisins and peanuts”). Snacks provide energy, are a wonderful treat, and often lead to that most decadent element of a break…

~ A Nap. I’ve experienced some of the best parts of the Sierra Nevada with my eyes closed — just like a lizard on a rock. I even carry the fleece vest I wear around the campsite near the top of my pack so I can use it as a field-expedient pillow.

~ Knock Off Some Chores. Sure, it’s a break, but you do need to get a few things done. I’ll often purify water, slip off my boots and rub my feet (or soak them), make an entry into my journal and write some notes on the map, take some photos, do a navigation and “day’s progress” check, put some layers on or take them off, do some stretching (especially of my Achilles tendons), and check on any nagging injuries, like strains, scrapes or blisters. I’ll also do a map reconnaissance of the way ahead.

If you are going to thru-hike the JMT you are going to do some goal-setting. There are a certain number of miles you need to cover each day. That said, part of your planning should be to spend at least a little (and if you can afford it, more than a little) time just relaxing and enjoying where you are. There is no better way to do that than with a good break!

Good hiking, Ray

p.s. One of these is good to have, too!

Filed under: Blog, Uncategorized and Tagged: Linger-Here, psychology

Places to Linger: Pinchot Pass to Mount Whitney

Published by Ray Rippel on March 31, 2014 3 Permalink

Here are some places to consider for a break, a nap, or a night on the last forty miles of the John Muir Trail.

This view of Mount Clarence King is worth a few minutes to stop and admire.

Small Tarn Near Twin Lakes (~ 162 miles from Happy Isles) Map. This is another great place for a break and for a photo opportunity. The tarn is actually on the west side of the trail (the Twin Lakes are on the east) and it’s best to leave the trail well before the tarn because the ground is much softer the closer you get (even late in the year). If you’re a photographer, spend some time working the scene. The reflection of what I believe is Mount Clarence King is quite striking.

Golden Gate of the Sierra Nevada (~ 167 miles from Happy Isles) Map. This suspension bridge is probably the second most famous spot on the trail, next to the Muir Hut at the top of Muir Pass. There are tons of campsites nearby (mostly on the east side), with ample water from Woods Creek. One person on the bridge at a time, please!

Fin Dome reflected off the water of Dollar Lake

Dollar Lake (~ 170 miles from Happy Isles) Map. We’re starting to get into one of the more scenic stretches of the trail. From Dollar Lake all the way to the top of Glen Pass there are some great spots to stop, either for a few minutes or the night. I enjoy taking a break at Dollar Lake, and when I do I always relax on this small peninsula that juts into the water. The best part: the view of Fin Dome reflecting off the surface. If you would like to camp nearby, Arrowhead Lake (just a short distance further down the trail) is probably the superior choice for an overnight stay.

Rae Lakes (~ 172 miles from Happy Isles) Map or Map. Neither of these spots are suitable for camping, but if you’ve spent the previous night at Arrowhead Lake, they are both great places for breakfast or a break. The view of the Painted Lady is particularly good. Once you leave here the climb to Glen Pass awaits.

Timberline Lake (~ 205 miles from Happy Isles) Map. Camping is prohibited at Timberline Lake, but it is a fine spot to stop on the way to Guitar Lake, for your last night in the woods. While the area around Guitar Lake is treeless and exposed, Timberline is, well, at the tree-line and quite pleasant. If you’ve hit this spot early enough, you may want to linger here a bit before pressing on to Guitar Lake.

Over these past five posts I’ve tried to pick some spots that are worth your attention. While there are certainly days when you need to make some time towards your mileage goal, don’t get in the habit of rushing past the beauty. Take frequent breaks and pick your campsites carefully in order to get the most out of your trip.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: campsites, John Muir Trail, Linger-Here

Places to Linger: Muir Pass to Pinchot Pass

Published by Ray Rippel on March 25, 2014 1 Permalink

We continue our tour of great places for breaks, naps, or campsites, this time reviewing the penultimate forty miles of the trail.

Best creep by this sleeping carnivore!

The outlet stream from Lake Marjorie.

Next week, the last forty miles of trail.

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: campsites, John Muir Trail, Linger-Here

Places to Linger: Silver Pass to Muir Pass

Published by Ray Rippel on March 18, 2014 5 Permalink

Lake Marie just before sunset. Try to spend the night here, but failing that, don’t hurry by.

We continue our tour of great places for breaks, naps, or campsites, this time reviewing the middle fifth of the trail. For previous posts, look here and here.

Not long after you get to the top Bear Creek will appear at your side. There are lots of places to stop and enjoy the water, but this is a good one!

Good hiking, Ray

Filed under: Blog and Tagged: campsites, John Muir Trail, Linger-Here

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