Readers of this blog know that I am a huge fan of the John Muir Trail, and, more generally, hiking in the Sierra Nevada. In fact, I like to call myself the unofficial chief evangelist of the JMT. I’m counting the days until my next adventure.
But that doesn’t mean it’s all beautiful views, clear water, and friendly marmots who sit on rocks and cheer as I walk by. There are a few things I don’t miss a bit when I finally leave the trail. Here are my top five:
#5. Yosemite Valley in August. I am not a Yosemite Valley snob. I love the valley and I enjoy spending time there. I got married there! Even I have to admit, though, that a hot, dusty, crowded August weekend is not a time when the valley is on its best behavior. Not only is it hot, dusty, and crowded, no one in the crowd seems to be having a very good time. Mostly I see people who are there because they felt they had to check it out while they were in California. They want to check the block and get the heck out. No fun.
#4. Groups who have no idea what the rules are. During my last thru-hike I camped my first night out of Red’s Meadow near Purple Lake. Once I got my tent set up I decided to walk back down the trail, to the lake, for water. While on the trail, I tripped and nearly fell on my face. My tripping isn’t all that surprising; I’m not known for being particularly graceful. Except that I tripped on a tent rope, staked ACROSS the trail. A group of about a dozen hikers had camped right next to the trail and right next to the lake. Later that night, they had a good sized fire, despite the fact that they were prohibited. I found out later that the group had been earlier fined for camping at the Thousand Island Lake outlet stream. Apparently, no one learned a lesson.
#3. The middle third of the descent from the summit to Whitney Portal. Hard to believe after all the climbing you do on the John Muir Trail, but the stretch I dread the most goes downhill. It comes after the switchbacks, going to the portal. I’m always amazed that I still have knees when I’m done.
#2. Not sleeping the first few nights. As I tinker with my sleeping gear, this has gotten a little bit better, but I still have problems at least the first two or three nights on the ground. A good sleeping pad helps, as does making sure you don’t get cold. Part of it is just psychological, especially since I am almost always camping alone. You never know what might be lurking out there!
#1. The smell inside my bear canister. I look at bear canisters sort of how I look at dentistry—my life would be SO much more unpleasant without it, but that doesn’t mean I have to like it. Trying to stuff a canister into a reasonably sized backpack so that it is both in the right spot, weight and balance wise, and near the top, so that you can get to it for lunch, is nearly impossible. What is the worst, however, is the strange alchemy that takes place as the aromas from the different items within it blend. Despite the fact that they all, individually, smell pretty good, the combination is disgusting. I’m half tempted to leave it open at night to air out, but I’m afraid I’d scare all the bears away, and I really do like seeing them from time to time.
Good hiking, Ray
Your posts and book get me very excited for the JMT trip I am doing this summer! Thank you and keep it up!
Thanks for the kind words, Alec. Good luck with the hike!
Thanks for the great book Ray. Lately it seems that the real challenge to hiking the JMT is getting the permit(s). Have you any insight to the high denial rate, or possible workarounds? I am of the impression that while I’d like to train and plan for it, there seems little likelihood that I will be able to obtain the necessary permits. I am 64 and have can’t afford to “wait until next year”.
I appreciate the kind words, Chris. I am doing a “workaround” this year, myself, and I am looking forward to it. I start at Glacier Point and head southeast, then exit Yosemite over Isberg Pass. The mileage is about the same. Water may be a bit of a problem, but then water is going to be a problem everywhere this year. There are no walk-up permits for the standard JMT (unless there are cancelations), but you should be able to get a walk-up for this (if you get there early enough). Good luck!
Thanks, as always, for the great insights for everything “JMT.” I have been using the Sierra Mapper software you mentioned in last week’s post. It is amazing. I started with the whole trail, from Yosemite to trail’s end. However, I got a message I had to many “via” points. I learned to break the trip up in smaller sections. Since then, I have created, edited, adjusted and saved many pieces of the trail. The mileage and elevation profiles are great! I plan to continue until I get the itinerary I like the best. Although unexpected things can always happen, all of the wonderful resources, including yours, takes much of the guesswork out of the picture.
I really appreciate the comment, Pat. Thanks. As you do your planning, you might want to take a look at this: http://jmtbook.com/tag/linger-here/. You might find some spots you want to explore!
Funny you should mention those favorites! It is exactly the kind of insight us “first-timers” need. I have incorporated some of your favorites and others I have seen in either print or video format in our itinerary. Every time I think I might just have the perfect stops for breaks, meals or the night, I discover another great one! I guess that is why one run through is not enough for many people!
I agree with several of these.. Part of the first few night difficulty is the altitude adjustment and sleep apnea. ….although my daughter once said she felt like a “pig in a blanket” in her sleeping bag as she heard animals walking outside. Ended up just deer a few feet away.
I hate that descent from Whitney so much that I am bypassing it gladly this year. Seems to go on forever.
And forever and forever…but the dinner at Lone Pine is worth it! Thanks, Stephen.
I laughed so hard at #5. I HATE the smell of my bear can. Even after I clean it out after a trip, the smell sometimes lingers. So gross.
Thanks for the comment, Erin. It IS nasty!
I can’t help but wonder if the bearcan smell might be helped out by having a little packet of baking soda that could somehow be rigged so it would dampen the smell but not spill all over the place. Hmmmm.
Sounds like an interesting idea. Thanks, Jill.