One of the wonders of the John Muir Trail is that, just when you are sure you have seen the most spectacular scenery possible, you turn the corner and see something even better. Curiously, this occurs if you start from the north or from the south! Hiking the traditional southbound route takes you through landscapes that are increasingly characterized by the panoramic (Evolution Valley), the gigantic (East Vidette), and, of course, the towering (Mount Whitney).
Should you hike northbound you progress into the intimate (Fish Creek/Tully Hole), the painterly (Garnet or Thousand Island Lakes), or the simply magnificent (Yosemite).
Every successful John Muir Trail thru-hiker is asked, “What was your favorite day, your favorite spot?” Ask me that question twenty times and you are apt to get twenty answers.
One spot that certainly makes the list is along the Rae Lakes, with the Painted Lady in the background.
Bolton Coit Brown first named the Peak “The Pyramid” in 1899. Brown was a New Yorker who travelled west to establish the art department in Stanford University. He excelled there, until he scandalized the administration by using nude models. He went on to become an accomplished artist (mostly known for his lithographs) and even had a hand in the creation of the Byrdcliffe artist colony in New York, known better for the name of the nearby town: Woodstock.
“The Painted Lady” first appears on maps in the mid-1950s, after a few decades as the unfortunate “Colored Lady.”
The peak is about 12,125 feet high – plus or minus. Like most Sierra Nevada peaks, you can find different figures at different places. It is a relatively easy peak to bag (mostly described as Class 2), and is less than a mile from and 1,000 feet above the JMT. The best approach is from the south, after approaching from the west.
If roaming that far off trail has no allure, no problem. You can get just as much enjoyment from this exquisite, symmetrical peak by just viewing it from across the lake.
Good hiking, Ray
It is absolutely stunning going North. I’ll see it southbound in a couple of years!
Good luck, Jack, and thanks for the comment.
At one point you sent out a photo of The Painted Lady that I set as my desktop picture last Spring. I followed your blog more closely then because I was anticipating hiking the trail in August(’15). Well I did and it was a success partly due to resources you provide, Thank you!
The ranger station was vacant because of the fires but it was still before noon so the smoke hadn’t filled the valley yet. My hiking buddy and I were having lunch on the peninsula at the north shore of the northern of the two Rae Lakes. Although I stared at the scenery, including Painted Lady, the entire hour we sat there it wasn’t until after I had finished my snickers bar covered in PB and wrapped in a tortilla and had jumped off the rocks into the water did I recognize what I was looking at. “OMG! That’s my laptop background!”
Happy Trails. Also, how do I send you a photo? I took one before we left and the smoke was already starting to fill the sky, cool sight.
I’ve had the same experience, Richard, of coming up on an icon that I’ve seen so often in photos. It’s always wonderful. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for the comment! You can shoot me a photo at ray [dot] rippel [at] gmail [dot] com.
Hi Ray,
can’t believe it’s been almost 8 months since we stepped off the JMT at Whitney Portal!
Thanks again for all the info and detail that proved invaluable when planning our SOBO trip.
The Painted Lady snuck up on us; all of a sudden we were at Rae Lakes and looked up and I thought that must be her!
Too many “favorite” places along the trail to mention, but Rae Lakes and Cathedral Lakes come to mind.
The lack of snow was both a blessing and a curse; hardly any mozzies, but then, none of the snow-capped peaks the Sierra is famous for. This year promises to be more normal for sure!
I’m sending you my favorite shot of The Lady at first light, and Cathedral Lake at last light.
Enjoy!
Rick
Thanks, Rick, for the pics (got them!) and the kind words. Time to start planning a new adventure!