The Rim Fire roils to the north. This photo was taken from near Nevada Fall, when the smoke was blowing northeast.
I have long been a proponent of late summer or early fall for a thru-hike of the John Muir Trial. I am close to changing that recommendation.
Starting in late August or early September has a lot to recommend it. Most kids are back in school by the latter part of August, and by Labor Day just about all of them are. The deep snow is long gone from the passes. With little snow at the highest elevations there is less water in the rivers and creeks, which makes the stream crossings far less problematic.
I happen to really enjoy two nights — with a rest day between — at Muir Trail Ranch. One- or two-night stays for a single or a small group are far easier to arrange later in the season.
Lastly, I hate mosquitoes. It’s unlikely that you’ll complete a JMT hike in September without seeing ANY of those little bloodsuckers, but you’ll see darned few.
That’s an awful lot of good reasons to hike late in the season. Here’s the one disadvantage: wildfires. During previous thru-hikes I’ve encountered the smoke from forest fires that came close to ending my trip. Once, a fire caused me to abandon the trail.
The first occurred in 2009. Two days before I started making my way up to Nevada Fall, a “controlled” burn, near Foresta, became anything but. The forest service was supposed to burn ninety-one acres; by the time the fire was out it had burned roughly eighty times as much (nearly 7,500 acres).
As I ascended out of Happy Isles the smoke wasn’t horrible, but it was noticeable. Three days later, while walking though the Rush Creek drainage, I could hear the build-up of stuff in my lungs. Sleeping was particularly unpleasant, as my noisy respiration kept me awake.
I took an unscheduled rest day at Red’s Meadow and went into Mammoth Lakes to find a doctor. After just one day of some wonderful pharmaceuticals I was nearly 100% and back on the trail.
In 2013 it was the Rim Fire. (This fire would ultimately dwarf the fire of 2009.) The Rim Fire almost disrupted my hike before it began. I acclimated in Mammoth Lakes, and if I had waited two more days before taking the YARTS from Mammoth to Yosemite Valley, I would not have gotten through. The road closed about forty-eight hours after my trip.
Then, on the fifth day of my hike, the wind changed and all the smoke that had been blowing northeast started to blow south. When I reached the top of Donohue Pass I could hardly see the terrain behind me.
I exhibited no symptoms of smoke-inhalation this time, but walking through all that smoke (while breathing hard) just wasn’t much fun. Fortunately, the smoke cleared the next day. Twice more during the next two weeks the wind would change and spoil the air (and the views) during my hike. Each time I considered abandoning the trail if things didn’t improve within a day or two. Each time they did improve.
In 2015 it was the Rough Fire. The smoke came and went the first few days of my hike, starting at Glacier Point and exiting Yosemite via Isberg Pass.
By the time I made my way down from Silver Pass the smoke had really started to roll in. Halfway to Quail Meadow it was thick, caustic, and causing one of the more nasty headaches I could remember. The views were mere shadows in the nearly opaque gray that enveloped me in all directions. That meant it was no fun walking and no fun looking at the Sierra Nevada. That didn’t leave much incentive to continue.
When I reached the bridge over Mono Creek I decided to bail via VVR.
Smoke near Lake Edison
This year we are all dealing with the Ferguson Fire.
So, is all of this a good enough reason to hike early? I don’t know, but it is something you may want to consider. If you decide on a June or July adventure, just make sure you bring the insect repellant!
Good hiking, Ray
Always a good read. Thanks. Where did you obtain medical care in Mammoth Lakes? There is no urgent care facility, only the hospital emergency room. Did you find a Dr’s office to take you on short notice? I am curious because 2 years ago I needed to seek some medical care at Mammoth for a minor issue that did need attention. It was a real hassle.
I went to a clinic that is adjacent to the hospital. They really treated me well and took my insurance no problem. I always carry my medical card! Thanks for the question, Doug.
Thanks for the post, Ray. We are getting really nervous about our upcoming High Sierra Loop hike. We start in about 3 weeks, hoping and praying the fire will be out and the skies clear. If not, a lot of time and money has been spent, and 8 very disappointed hikers. Snow cancelled the hike last year, and now potentially fires. Everyone take good care,
Diane
For good reason, Diane, especially now that they closed the valley and Wawona entirely. Still, three weeks is a long time and they do seem to be making some progress. There is lots of good stuff at this link: https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5927/. If I were you I would still be cautiously optimistic this far out.
I start NOBO out of Horseshoe Meadows exactly two weeks from today and fire with its attendant smoke is my single biggest concern. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Unless you are really moving, that would put you in Yosemite three-and-a-half weeks from now. I would expect things to be much better. Thanks for the comment, John.
Do you know if they evacuated the hikers that are currently on the trail?
Hikers “on” the John Muir Trail have not been evacuated. Hikers who were to start their hikes from Happy Isles or Glacier Point will not be able to start if there entry dates are during the time that the valley is closed. Hope this helps, Pam.
Hi Ray! Thanks so much for your response… I’m just a little worried about my cousin who started on 7/12. I haven’t heard from him since last Wednesday, 18th, when I think he was in Mammoth.
Obviously, Pam, I know nothing specific to your cousin’s situation, but there are very few opportunities to reach out from the trail once you head south from Red’s Meadow. MTR has a very slow internet connection, which he or she may not have been aware of. If you consider 18 walking days about average, it will be several more until an exit at Whitney Portal. Remember, also, that the trail has got lots of hikers on it, who could offer assistance if necessary. It sounds like you have an adventurous family!
Secured a thru-hike permit leaving Glacier Point on 09/18. I am happy to miss the kids and crowds but am concerned with: 1. Missing MTR by days of their season closing; 2. Rangers will have left the trail during my 18 day planned hike; 3. Early weather; 4. Navigation challenged and first-time JMT attempt. Planning and reading is in-process.
Let me take a shot at this: 1. I really like MTR, but a stop there is not required. It will mean that you have some extra pounds when you leave VVR, or that you will need another resupply somewhere. 2. I have rarely seen a ranger on the JMT, after Yosemite. There may not be rangers, but there will be hikers. 3. If you are hiking in October you need to be ready for a smallish snowstorm. We had a pretty significant snowstorm last year on September 21, but it only dropped about six inches and it disappeared within a day or two. I would pack a day or two of extra food for the last half of the hike, just in case you need to shelter in place for 24 – 48 hours. 4. Navigation is pretty easy on the JMT; most intersections are signed. There is a spot in Yosemite, near Sunrise Creek, that often gives people problems (though they realize their mistake within fifty steps), and it’s easy to make a wrong turn around Red’s Meadow (but without serious consequences), but, overall, navigation is not difficult. Good luck!
Ray, have followed your blog for long time. Your dedicated service to new hikers is amazing. Long time Sierra hiker and first time JMT starting Aug 26 NOBO. Thx and hope to meet someday on this amazing trail. Tenkara rod packed. Bob
May the trout fear your name, Bob! Thanks for the kind words and good luck!
I’m heading up to Edison Wednesday next week to hike JMT south for a few days, I hear smoke has just arrived at Edison, any idea how bad yet? thanks for your post Paul
Probably not bad today; the wind is from the south so Reno is getting much of it. VVR is pretty far south. Even if the wind changes, it shouldn’t be horrible. Thanks, Paul, for the question.